USAluminum specializes in Sunrooms, Screen Rooms, Screen Enclosures, Re-Screens and Repairs, Seamless Gutters, Patios, Porches, Fences, Railings, Decorative Screen Doors, Pavers and Concrete with best quality and Price Guaranteed for Florida Residents.

December 1st, 2011

US Aluminum Services, Corp. is providing you with several steps on how to install gutters! You can also view these steps at thisoldhouse.com

Rain gutters are extremely important because without them, water would erode the soil around the foundation of your home as well as splash dirt up onto the siding. For Florida Residents, proper working rain gutters are a basic need because they often have to deal with hurricanes and tropical storms and if the gutters are not draining correctly, it can cause many other problems in and around their home.

Features and benefits of gutters:

- Stops small to large leaves

- Stops tree branches, pine needles, straw, and seeds

- Virtually invisible from the curbside

- Over 20 colors to choose from

Installing Gutters in 8 Steps:

Step 1- Snap Layout Lines: Mark the highest point of the gutter run on the fascia 1 ¼ inches below the metal drip-edge flashing (on the extra-wide fascia shown here, the gutter is lower down). At the other end of the fascia (or at the downspout location if there’s one in the middle of the run), mark the low end of the gutter run, keeping in mind that the slope should be approximately ½ inch for every 10 feet of run. Snap a chalk line between the two points (as shown).

Step 2 - Attach Fascia Brackets: Locate the rafter tails behind the fascia; they’re typically spaced 16 inches on center (look for telltale nail heads).  Make a mark at the chalk line on every other rafter tail. Bore a ⅛-inch-diameter pilot hole through the fascia and into the rafter tail at each mark. Fasten fascia brackets with ¼-inch stainless steel lag screws long enough to penetrate rafters 2 inches (as shown).

Step 3 – Saw Gutter To Length: Cut gutter section to length with hacksaw and aviation snips, or with a 12-inch power miter saw fitted with a carbide-tipped finish blade (as shown). If the gutter continues around a corner, cut the appropriate angle (typically 45 degrees) on that end. If the run requires two sections of gutter, overlap them by 8 inches and use 3/8-inch-long, self-tapping, stainless steel screws or pop rivets, in two rows of four each, to join them.

Step 4 – Attach End Caps: At the square-cut end of the gutter, attach a spherical end cap with aluminum pop rivets. (If the gutter doesn’t turn a corner, fasten an end cap to each end.) To do this, hold the end cap in place temporarily with a single sheet-metal screw, then drill a 1/8-inch-diameter hole and install one pop rivet (above). Remove the temporary screw and replace it with a rivet. To ensure a watertight joint, seal the rivets and the end-cap seam on the inside of the gutter with a high-quality siliconized caulk.

Step 5 – Cut Downspout Holes: Use a downspout outlet to mark the location of the downspout on the low end of the gutter. To do this, turn the gutter upside down and place the outlet on top. Drill a ¼-inch-diameter hole through the center of the circular outline. Turn the gutter over and cut the downspout hole using a 4-inch-diameter hole saw chucked into a drill (as shown).

Step 6 – Install Gutter: Lay the gutter into the brackets that you’ve lag-screwed to the fascia. Rotate the gutter upward until its back edge slips into the hooks at the top of the back of the brackets (as shown). Through the screw-mounting hole in each bracket, drill a 3/16-inch-diameter hole in the front edge of the gutter. Secure the gutter to the bracket with a 1-inch-long #8-32 stainless steel machine screw and flanged nut.

Step 7 – Form Strip-Miter Joint At Corner: Cover the joint between two lengths of gutter at each corner with a strip miter — a 3-inch-wide strip of aluminum. Wrap the aluminum strip tight around the underside of the gutter. Secure it with eight pop rivets or sheet- metal screws. Cut a triangular section from the top of the strip miter (as shown) with snips, and then fold down the two flaps around the top edge of the gutter. This joint can also be made more waterproof with the addition of a high-quality siliconized caulk.

Step 8 – Connect Downspout To Gutter: Secure the downspout outlet to the gutter with four pop rivets or screws. Screw a downspout elbow to the outlet tube protruding down from the gutter. Hold another elbow against the house and cut a piece of downspout to fit between the two elbows. Use needlenosed pliers to slightly crimp the elbow to fit into the downspout (as shown). Fasten the parts together with pop rivets or screws.

Below are some pictures of seamless gutters installed in the Central Florida Area by US Aluminum Services, Corp.

October 13th, 2011

US Aluminum Services, Corp. is providing you with several steps on how to plan and post a pergola! You can also view these steps at popularmechanics.com

Installing a Pergola in 7 Steps

A pergola is a unique architectural blend that places you both inside and out at the same time. A pergola can be used to define a passageway or frame a focal point in your yard.

Features and benefits of a pergola:

  • Pergolas Receives a Shade Factor of 40-60 Percent
  • Rain, Sun & Weather Resistant
  • Come in a variety of different colors

Step 1. A Toro Dingo’s 16-inch auger makes short work of straight, 40-inch-deep holes for footings, or whatever depth will reach below frost line in your climate. For drainage, pour and pack 4 inches of gravel into the holes before installing the posts.

Step 2. To lay out posthole locations, build a 2 x 8 frame. Its inside corners mark the four posts. Dig a small trench, level the frame, then remove it to dig the holes. Next, replace the frame, set the posts and fasten them to the sides of the frame so they’ll stay plumb.

Step 3. After fastening the posts to the frame, install 2 x 4 angle braces from the frame to the posts. These will keep the posts from twisting or warping before the rafters go up and lock the posts in place for backfilling. You can remove the braces later.

Step 4. Posthole depth varies. It’s best to install the posts long and trim them to final height, measuring from the frame upward. Finish the circular-saw cut with a handsaw, then install a cleat 6 inches down (inset) to hold the girders while fastening.

Step 5. Temporarily set the girders with deck screws above the cleats, then install the through-bolts in the girders and posts. Allow the girder to rise above the post an inch or so in case you decide to run wire for lights or power.

Step 6. Cut the rafter tails on the ground, then mark their 18-inch cantilevers against the posts. After wedging one end up top, walk the other end up the ladder. Toe-screw the rafters to the girders using a 3-inch deck screw.

Step 7. A 2 x 4 rafter stay atop the rafters every 24 inches adds the right detail while holding the rafters in place. Install stays over the girders first, then over the rafters. After two coats of tinted oil-based stain, add a layer of sod, then a table and chairs.

Below are some pictures of pergolas that Us Aluminum Services, Corp. has done in the Central Florida Area.

September 30th, 2011

The Fall Orlando Home Show is coming to the Orange County Convention Center during the weekend of October 7-9th. The Home Show consists of over 300 experts that range from security systems to remodeling services. US Aluminum Services, Corp. will be at this home show to display their services that include sunrooms, screen rooms, patios, lanais, pavers, seamless gutters and much more. US Aluminum Services, Corp, has been serving the Central Florida area since 2004 and continues to grow and prosper by providing its customers with the best services and quality products in the area.

If you would like to receive a FREE Admissions Pass to the Orlando Home Show contact our Marketing Manager at 407-237-3128 xt 7013 or by email at Samantha@us-aluminum.com by Thursday October 6th!

September 27th, 2011

Orlando, FL, September 27, 2011 – US Aluminum Services, Corp. a leading construction company in the Central Florida area, has been ranked by Inc. Magazine in the Inc. 500|5000 for the third year in a row. Inc. 500|5000 is an exclusive ranking of the fastest growing private companies in America. This year US Aluminum Services, Corp. ranked number 2114 in the nation, and number 74 in the construction category.

“US Aluminum Services, Corp. has come a long way since we were founded in 2004. I am very proud of  the growth that has occurred within this company and honored to be recognized for the 3rd year in a row,” said Thiago Davila, company President and Founder. “I believe our commitment to our customers and focusing on providing them with quality affordable products is what sets us apart from our competitors.”

Inc. 500|5000 examined and measured each company’s growth between 2007 and 2010. In order to be considered, a company must have started generating revenue by March 31, 2007. In addition to this, the company must have generated at least $100,000 in revenue in 2007 and $2 million in 2010.  The company needs to also be privately held, for profit, based in the US, and independent. US Aluminum Services, which was founded in 2004, proudly met all of these requirements in addition to a remarkable growth of 119% during the examined three-year period. It is a great accomplishment for an independent business like US Aluminum Services, Corp. to not only stay afloat during a struggling economy but to also be recognized for consistent and  outstanding growth.

About US Aluminum Services, Corp.

Founded in 2004, US Aluminum Services, Corp. is a fully insured and state certified construction company that complies with all Florida Codes for the construction industry. US Aluminum Services, Corp. offers the best designed, best installed and best backed warranty in the business. All services are executed to the exact specifications of their customers’. Their materials are top of the line, made exclusively to US Aluminum Service, Corp. specifications by the top manufactures in Florida. Their services include: Florida screen rooms, patio and pool enclosures, sunrooms, architectural columns, pergolas, seamless gutters, pavers, concrete and fences. www.us-aluminum.com

September 20th, 2011

US Aluminum Services, Corp. has been working on a lot of Pool Enclosures with Architectural columns, check out the pictures! Architectural Columns are the new industry trend, they allow your Screen Enclosure to look more dressed up!

US Aluminum Services, Corp. offers many services including  screen enclosures and architectural columns.

Screen enclosures can offer a variety of benefits for homeowners.

A few of these benefits include:

  • Low Maintenance
  • Keep Children Safe
  • Lower Cost of Pool Cleaning
  • Eliminates bug, debris, and harsh sun
  • Protection from harmful UV rays

Adding architectural columns to your screen enclosure can help it blend into the style of your home.

Some features of architectural columns include:

  • Double – Strengh Aluminum Frame Support
  • Durable, High Grade Architectural Material
  • Mold, Mildew, and Fungus Resistant
  • Custom Paint
  • Array of Different Colors and designs to choose from

Below are some recent photos of pool enclosures with architectural columns done by US Aluminum Services, Corp.

September 9th, 2011

US Aluminum Services is providing you with 6 steps on how to install a pool fence! You can also view these steps on doityourself.com

Install a Pool Fence in 6 Steps

Installing a swimming pool fence is a wise move, especially if you have children, pets or elderly around. It provides  safety and adds charm to your swimming pool and deck.

Features and benefits of a pool fence:

  • Transparent Mesh
  • Weather Resistant
  • Key Lockable Gates
  • Conforms to Any Pool Shape

Follow these 6 steps to successfully install pool fencing that will not only keep you busy over the weekend, but also save you money on hiring labor.

Tools and Equipment Needed:

  • Garden hose or rope
  • Measuring tape
  • Chalk
  • Tape
  • Stick, 4 feet long
  • Waterproof marker
  • Safety glasses
  • Gloves
  • Drilling machine and cement drill bits
  • Pool fencing and plastic sleeves
  • Pool gate with spring latch

Step 1 – Measure Area and Purchase Appropriate Fencing

Arrange a garden hose or rope at least 2 to 3 feet from the edge of the pool to determine where you will install the safety fence. Also mark the opening for the gate with chalk, which usually opens on to the pool stairs.

Draw the hose or rope tight and measure it to give you an idea of how much fencing you need to purchase.

Purchase the type of fencing that will compliment the architectural design of your house along with providing you peace of mind and the assured safety. There are many types available in home improvement or hardware stores such as aluminum, steel, wrought iron and treated wood that are generally five or six feet high.

Step 2 – Cut Sticks

Take your 4-foot long stick and measure and cut a piece 3 feet long. This will be used to measure the distance between the fence sections. Measure and cut another stick 2 ½ inches long from the remaining piece, to measure the distance between each panel.

Step 3 – Mark Drilling Holes

Use a waterproof marker to mark the areas, using the 3-foot and 2 ½-inch sticks to provide appropriate spacing. Do this all around the pool. Make sure you measure and mark the area accurately because you will be drilling holes over them.

Step 4 – Prepare Drilling Machine

Make sure your drilling machine has a cement bit to drill holes into your deck. Measure the plastic sleeves that came with your fence material and measure, cut and install a piece of tape the same length on the drill bit where it meets the sleeve. This will allow you to drill the size of the sleeve, without going too deep.

Step 5 – Drill the Marked Area

Make sure you wear your protective eyewear and gloves, and begin drilling the holes on the marked spots. Clean away loose cement and insert the plastic sleeves into the holes, pushing them all the way down. These will hold the fencing poles, so make sure they are tightly fit in the hole.

Step 6 – Install Pool Fencing and Gate

Begin at the gate and insert poles into the sleeves. Pull the fencing material, which is usually steel mesh tight between them. Work your way around the pool to install the fencing.

Locate the openings in the top parts of the poles where you want to install your pool gate, and insert a spring latch, followed by the gate. This latch is a building requirement to ensure the gate closes by itself immediately after it is opened.
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/install-a-pool-fence-in-6-steps#b#ixzz1Tn88mPVM

Below are a few pictures done in the Central Florida area by US Aluminum Services

August 25th, 2011

Features and benefits of a concrete walkway:

»High Integrity Color

»Slip & Skid resistance

»Low Maintenance

US Aluminum Services is providing you with 9 simple steps on how to install a concrete walkway. You can also view these steps at doityourself.com

concrete walkway is an inexpensive and durable addition to a home’s landscape. This project requires thorough planning, simple tools, some elbow grease and a few days to complete. But the results can be well worth the effort.

Tools and Materials

  • Chalk dust or spray paint
  • Shovel
  • Gravel
  • 10-inch stakes
  • Twine
  • Tamping Tool
  • Mixed concrete
  • 1 foot x 4 inch x 4 inch-boards (for the forms)
  • Screws
  • Drill with a screw bit
  • Rake
  • 2×4-inch board (for smoothing the concrete)
  • Concrete float
  • Stiff Broom
  • Plastic tarp

Step 1 – Plan the Walkway

Decide the position of the walkway and mark the ground with chalk dust or spray paint. Then pound the stakes in along the excavated path so that they are 2 inches above ground. Then string them together with twine between them as a guideline.

Step 2 – Dig Out the Walkway

Remove the turf and then dig down until you have reached a depth of 8 inches. Level the soil and remove any stones. Now lay a 4-inch layer of gravel. Pack the gravel down and be sure it is level.

Step 3 – Build the Concrete Forms

Use the lumber to build forms to pour the concrete into. Screw the boards into the stakes that you placed along the path earlier. If you have planned curves in your plan you may need some laminated wood that bends more easily to create the curves. Use a level to be sure that the forms are level. The stakes should be below the top of the forms.

Step 4 – Pour the Concrete

Pour the concrete into the forms. Once it is poured rake over the concrete to level it.

Step 5 – Smooth the Concrete

Take a board and run it over the concrete resting it on the forms to smooth and level the concrete. Once it is fairly level then go over it with a concrete float held at an angle to do the final smoothing.

Step 6 – Edge the Walkway

Leave the concrete to cure for a couple of hours. Then separate the forms from the concrete by using an edging trowel.

Step 7 – Score the Expansion Joints

Expansion joints should be scored into the concrete every 4 feet. Use a board to create a straight line run the trowel along it. These joints allow the concrete to expand and contract and reduce cracking.

Step 8 – Cure the Concrete

Texture the concrete by sweeping with a stiff broom leaving a light texture on the surface. A texture keeps the concrete from being too smooth and slippery. Then the concrete should be covered with plastic tarping for at least two days. Rushing this process can interfere with the setting and durability of the concrete.

Step 9 – Remove the Forms

Once the concrete is dry and cured take the covering off. Carefully remove the forms and stakes. Fill in any soil needed next to the walkway and pack it down.

You may want to consider stamping the concrete or adding coloring to make the walkway more distinctive. A carefully installed concrete walkway will last for years and provides a useful and attractive part of your landscape.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-install-a-concrete-walkway#b#ixzz1Tn7E6cO1

Below are a few pictures of finished jobs done in the Central Florida Area by US Aluminum Services:

Concrete walkway done by Us Aluminum Services

Concrete driveway done by Us Aluminum Services

July 20th, 2011

How to Install a Window

When windows are placed in the proper spot, they can catch the perfect view of outside and let in a lot of sunlight!

US Aluminum Services has provided you with 9 steps on how to successfully remove an old window and install a new one in its place! All supplies can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe’s. You can also view these steps from DIY network.

Materials

  • double-paned window
  • wooden window sill
  • paint
  • trim molding
  • silicone
  • insulation
  • cedar shims

Tools

  • finish nailer
  • miter saw
  • circular saw
  • screw gun
  • hammer
  • pry bar

Step 1: Remove Window Trim and Casing

The first thing to do is to use a prybar to remove the window trim and jamb extension from around the old window. The jam extension is just a piece of wood that’s been ripped down and attached to the window jamb to bring it even with the wall.

Step 2: Remove Old Window/Guide Track

Unscrew the window from the jamb and remove it. Take care not to break the glass while removing. Many windows will be multiple window sashes with moving tracks on the side. Those types of windows may be easier to remove one sash at a time.

Step 3: Prep/Repair New Window Opening

With the window out of the wall, inspect the condition of the window jamb to make sure there is no structural damage. It’s not uncommon for an old window to leak, rotting out the jamb. If there is damage, you will have to replace or repair the damaged areas of the jamb before moving forward. Also, you will need to measure your rough opening to make sure that it can accommodate your new window. The rough opening should be 1/4” to 3/8” larger than the exterior dimensions of the new window.

Step 4: Inspect/Replace Window Stop

The window stop is a piece of wood ripped down and placed around the exterior side of the window jamb. The function of the stop is to prevent the window from sliding out of the opening. It literally stops the window from moving. It’s very likely that the original stop is still in useable condition, but if it is damaged, you may need to repair or replace this as well.

Step 5: Dry Fit Window

Before applying the silicone to the the window stop, dry fit the window to make sure there are no fitment issues. If you do have fitment issues, address them now and then dry fit the window again. When done properly the window should fit snugly into the opening. Do not move forward with the install until you are satisfied with the way the window fits in the opening.

Step 6: Install Window

The actual install of the window is very simple. First, run a bead of silicone on the inside edge of the window stop (Image 1) and then slide the window into place (Image 2). Place a level across the top of the window and press cedar shims between the bottom of the window frame and the jamb as necessary to get the window sitting level (Image 3). The window will usually come with its own hardware packet, typically consisting of four screws that will go through the sides of the unit to anchor it to the jamb. Two screws should be put into each side of the window, one near the top and the other near the bottom (Image 4). There will be pre-drilled holes in the window frame for the screws.

Step 7: Add Insulation

There may be gaps around the original window frame the wall studs, and this is the perfect opportunity to insulate those areas better. For larger gaps, cut pieces of roll insulation and pack them into the gaps. For harder to reach spots, you can use expanding spray insulation foam.

Step 8: Add Extension Jambs and Trim Molding

Pick a style of molding that fits your home’s decor and create a frame around the window. Measure the length of each piece and use a miter saw to cut the trim to the appropriate length. Make your cuts on 45-degree angles so the trim will fit together with a nice picture-frame look. Attach the trim to the wall with finish nails. You may also need to add thin strips of wood trim (a jamb extension, see Step 1) inside the original window frame to cover the gap between the new window and the drywall.

TIP: At first, use only enough nails to hold the trim to the wall until you’ve successfully lined up all four sides of the frame. Once you’ve achieved the proper fit and you’re sure the trim will not require additional adjustments to fit, you can go back and add more finish nails, every 6 to 8 inches. Any slight gaps in the corners can be filled in with silicone before painting.

Step 9: Paint and Add Finishing Touches

The final step is to finish off the window framing by filling any nail holes with stainable/paintable wood putty and painting or staining the trim moulding around the window for a finished look.

July 15th, 2011

If you are thinking about building a walkway or a pool deck in your yard, pavers are a great idea to use to complete the job! They will make your pool deck or walk way look beautiful!

US Aluminum Services has provided you with 10 steps in installing a screen door! All supplies can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe’s. You can also view these steps from DIY network.

Features and Benefits of Having Pavers:

  • Belgard PaverSystems paver products
  • High Integrity Color
  • Slip & Skid resistance
  • Low Maintenance
  • Easy Paver Replacement
  • Hundreds of Shapes, Sizes, and Colors to choose from

Materials

  • concrete
  • masonry sand
  • pavers
  • cinderblocks
  • shovels
  • wheelbarrow
  • rubber mallet
  • straightedge
  • hammer
  • cold chisel
  • diamond edge wet saw
  • trowel
  • vibratory plate compactor

Tools

Step 1: Clear the Area

Before starting any excavation project, contact local utility companies to identify gas and water lines. Using shovels, wheelbarrows and good old-fashioned muscle, begin hauling out dirt and debris.

Step 2: Spread Crushed Concrete

Once dug to the right depth throughout the courtyard, fill the area up again. Start by spreading roughly two inches of crushed concrete evenly over the soil. The crushed concrete is an aggregate.

Step 3: Screed Sand

Lay out the conduit poles about two feet apart (Image 1). Since you will not be able to walk on the sand once it is screeded, work in small sections (Image 2).

Step 4: Lay Pavers

Lay the pavers down with the rough surface facing upward. This will give the courtyard more of a natural stone look. Place a straight edge along the length of the pavers just laid. By tapping gently with a rubber mallet, you are able to keep the pavers nice and flat.

Step 5: Continue Screeding and Laying Pavers

Continue screeding the sand bed one section at a time before laying the next area of pavers. Once laid, the pavers provide an excellent area to work without upsetting the newly screeded sand bed. Continue screeding and laying pavers, leaving the area for the fountain open.

Step 6: Lay the Fountain Foundation

Position four cinderblocks where the fountain base will sit, making sure they are level. These foundation blocks will help distribute the weight of the fountain and prevent uneven sinking or wobbling. Using a hammer and cold chisel, score the pavers along the line. If there are large areas where pavers need to be cut to size, a more modern technique can be used with a diamond blade wet saw.

Step 7: Add a Restraining Wall

Add a small DIY restraining wall along the flowerbeds burring the pavers in an upright position. This is an inexpensive, effective and attractive way to keep dirt and water from spilling over into the courtyard.

Step 8: Place the Fountain

After placing the fountain on its new foundation, add a row of pavers to serve as a small retaining wall for the plants.

Step 9: Spread Masonry Sand

Making sure to fill the spaces in between each paver, spread masonry sand across the entire surface. Leaving surplus sand across the top of the pavers helps cushion the surface when you use the plate compactor. The vibration of the plate compactor also helps to fill the joints in between pavers.

Step 10: Re-Sweep the Area

Finally, re-sweep the surface with the remaining dry sand. This process may have to be repeated over the new few days as the sand settles and rain compacts it.

Below are a few pictures of finished jobs done in the Central Florida Area by US Aluminum Services:

July 1st, 2011

US Aluminum Services, Corp of Orlando,Florida has joined up with Winter Park Construction in the West Orlando Habitat for Humanity Home at Last 2 Project, building a home for another disable veteran and his family, the family that was chosen was the Griffin Family from Oakland, Florida. The veteran Benjamin Griffin, 24, is a 5 year US Army Veteran who was in Iraq when we was brutally injured in an IED explosion, which has now left him in a wheelchair.

US Aluminum Services, Corp. has donated their services in helping build the Griffin family their dream home. US Aluminum Services, Corp. donated and installed a pool enclosure and lanai for their porch/patio for the Griffin Family home, with the help from getting their materials from their suppliers; Eagle Metal Aluminum and Phifer‘s BetterVue Screen.

Pictures of the Enclosure are found below:

Lanai for their Porch, Used BetterVue Screen

You can visit www.us-aluminum.com to learn more